ioka so lucky!

last night some of my girls and i went to see the Jack McCoy surf film festival at the lovely Ioka Theatre in Exeter.



Fair Bits was great. i am so in awe by the power of these giant waves and the way these guys are able glide on top of all that energy. they're the cowboys of the ocean. some of those waves were so big, just swallowing up people. and there they were jumping and dancing on top like it's the most natural thing in the world.

by far, the best part of the evening was intermission. there was a drawing, in which Jaclyn won a surf board! yep, that's right, a real board all her own. it's hot too in brown and black argyle.

these pathetically hormonal homey kids were all like "we'll see that board on e-bay tomorrow" and i was all like "fuck that shit, homeys. you're gonna see our asses wiggling on the 2 foot waves at the wall bitches!" well, i didn't actually say that, but it's what i was thinking.

so, this summer our mission is to learn how to hang ten. i'm stoked. i totally think it's possible too given that waves around here rarely get big. the danger factor isn't so great. the chill factor though is huge since the water temperature is always freezing. i guess that's why real surfers pee in their wetsuits, ek!

check out the webcam for current wave conditions at the wall.